anytime a saddle is below 8/64ths sticking out above the bridge at the low E where it contours to the wings of the bridge(unless it is a prewar martin with original saddle, which should stick 6/64ths above the bridge on the bass side at the low E where it contours to the wings of the bridge, if it has not ever been sanded down) then the guitar will need a … The saddle on these instrument may have been lowered again and again as the guitar reaches the point where a neck reset is needed. If you have a 3/8 bridge and you have a 4/32 saddle you are still in spec but at low end of the spec. It might be ok to get you out of a hole on something you don't mind getting beat-up, but it's not the ideal way forward in most circumstances (i.e. The following figure shows the location of the hex screws. It's what I'd like too most of the time, BUT if the top is a little on the soft side- as responsive guitars tend to be- then that saddle might be too tall. The action is perfect. The break angle over the saddle looks OK to me. Acoustic Saddle Height and Action Of course the issue is action. Those things are a by product of the saddle- don't put the cart before the horse. I currently have Elixir PB 12-52s on the guitar also. I love low action, but I had a feeling that saddle was just too low. It's always a trade-off, too. IMHO this guitar needs a neck reset. To lower your saddle, all you need is a pencil and straightedge to mark your saddle and a file and bench vise to remove material. If you are concerned here is what you need to check . Usually the reason that the saddle is so low is to allow for a lower string height along the fretboard. The only upgrades I have done to the guitar were a Greven pickguard and a Koa end pin. I do like the Lightfoot song, though - have for decades. An Unofficial forum for those who love Martin instruments - Founded by Steve Stallings. As the saddle gets lower, the angle that the strings 'break' over it reduces. The worst thing that can happen is that you’ll need to get a new saddle … 2nd As for the saddle height if you have a heavy bridge on there ( .410 ) is as heavy as martin uses now , you may just have a larger bridge and here you can get a lower one.. Of course, that's not an inexpensive job. However, in order to comply with privacy regulations, I also need you to provide consent to store and process the information you've entered. Most of the time, this means taking a little off the bottom to lower the action and improve playability. If you raise the saddle, the action's going up. A hand-drawn, illustrated guide to setting up your own Strat. If it's an ultra-light built guitar, a low saddle is not necessarily a bad thing. A low saddle means less break-angle as the strings travel over it. It’s easiest to take material off the bottom of the saddle… Certainly not have the neck reset based on just that. More common is an older guitar that's been settling and shifting under string-tension for years. Is it going to be a problem long term for the life of the guitar? And it’s not critical if you get it really wrong. Either way, you don't want your saddle too low. It can be possible to improve things by 'ramping' the string slots from the end-pin holes to increase that string break-angle. Guess I'll be calling Bob (Colosi) sometime next week. That's not something you really want to do on a nice guitar and it will devalue an instrument. The saddle controls the action and we adjust the saddle to control the action, not to have some inherent height or break angle. The string action on an acoustic can be altered by changing the height of the saddle. When you pull out the pins the strings will try to … There's a danger in going too far though. Download Truss Rods Made Easy for free. Ever hear someone say: "I'll do anything else with my guitar but I won't touch the truss rod."? 1st string height , if you are below 13/32 you are in the reset range . The break angle over the saddle looks OK to me. As the angle drops, and you start to lose that pressure, one or more strings may begin to lose output. This is even more of a problem if you have an under-saddle transducer (UST) pickup. IMHO this guitar needs a neck reset. If the neck is adjusted right(I assume this model has the adjustable truss rod), then you will probably end up having to do a neck reset in a few years. IMHO if any guitar i own has a saddle height below 8/64ths sticking out at the low E where the saddle contours the bridges wings ( i prefer through cut saddles) then the guitar needs a neck reset. … It's not that scary. This website uses cookies for functionality, analytics and advertising purposes as described in our, Enis - A bunch of guitars and my 1984 Ovation Ultra (, http://www.dailymotion.com/video/xif8g_ ... lder_music. Either way, you don't want your saddle too low. Well, perhaps not much more tan 10 on the wound strings, but I wouldn´t worry about that. Just raising the saddle will also raise the action. I don't do spam and you can unsubscribe at any time. Check your inbox for an email for me—you'll need to confirm your subscription there. It might take a few minutes to come through so, don't worry if it's not there immediately. but generally no higher than 10/64ths sticking out. it's worth mentioning that a low output from some strings with a UST/piezo pickup may not be related to this saddle break-angle thing. So long as you are patient and take care, then this is something that you should be able to do yourself. There are other things that can play into output and string-to-string volume balance issues. Thanks a lot. Tagged: repair, bridge, saddle, acoustic, piezo, ust, undersaddle transducer, pickup, action. Everything on this guitar is stock from what I was told, except a bone saddle was added. The process to lower the saddle on an acoustic guitar isn’t actually too difficult. Break angle is not as important as over all string height . but if a higher saddle is all that is needed i go that route. If you don’t have access to a bench vise, a nice flat counter top and some coarse (80 grit) sandpaper will also work. Put a capo over the nut of the guitar and de-string it. If you have 7/16 to 1/2 you should be fine . anytime a saddle is below 8/64ths sticking out above the bridge at the low E where it contours to the wings of the bridge(unless it is a prewar martin with original saddle, which should stick 6/64ths above the bridge on the bass side at the low E where it contours to the wings of the bridge, if it has not ever been sanded down) then the guitar will need a neck reset. The bridge looks to have a rather steep ramps from the pin holes to the saddle. Oh, I'm just messing with you Dave, and I couldn't think of a song with "20 degrees" in it. You are signing up for my email newsletter so the understanding that you'll receive emails is pretty explicit. Disclaimer Section: IMHO, YMMV, IMHE, Don't Try This At Home, Take With Grain Of Salt, etc, etc. This is even more of a problem if you have an under … If it plays fine, just enjoy it.....but the saddle is pretty low. There's nothing wrong with a lower saddle on a soft topped guitar. If the saddle has two hex screws, be sure to turn them the same amount so that the saddle stays level. If the action is OK (=to the owners liking) and the relief is within reason I wouldn´t say this guitar needs a neck reset. These pickups use piezo crystals that depend on pressure to produce a good signal. That's a discussion for another day, though. IMO, many of the newer guitar designs being built incorporate saddles that are much too high, and that leads to a whole 'nuther set of problems. You can read more in my, Haze Guitars, 54 Rossberry Avenue, Lucan, Ireland. I should spend my time more wisely, I know. Occasionally, a guitar's neck angle won't allow a comfortable playing action without making the saddle really low. Too small an angle and the transfer of a string's energy into the soundboard suffers. otherwise you are sacrificing not necessarily tone but volume of the guitar. The saddle on these instrument may have been lowered again and again as the guitar reaches the point where a neck reset is needed. In order to raise or lower the saddle on an acoustic guitar, it is necessary to remove the strings, take out the saddle and then either sand it or glue on a shim. You raise or lower the saddle by turning the hex screws with a tine hex wrench. If it's necessary to have a saddle this low in order to achieve a comfortable action, it's probably time for a neck reset. If someone suggests shaving the top of the bridge (the wooden bit the saddle sits in), you'll want to think very carefully about this. Too small an angle and the transfer of a string's energy into the soundboard suffers. OK, but it is less of an angle than I like. It won't cause any problems, though- you just don't have much room to go lower. if your guitar is worth more than a hundred bucks or so). Turn the screw clockwise to raise the saddle; turn it counter-clockwise to lower the saddle.

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