The Park closes at dusk. Calypso is also a perfect intro to multi-pitch, with an optional summit and technical descent making for a complete climbing experience. The rock quality in Eldorado Canyon can be a bit…well, punishing. Non-insulated, Gore-Tex, Dermizax, Event, or other waterproofing system is required. Instant PDF Generic pre-created PDF - for Eldorado Canyon State Park There are too many routes to create a PDF at this node. "Wrap-Around" style sunglasses with 100% UV Protection. Current climbing forecast for Eldorado Canyon. And yet I’m hesitant to do so; until I know who is asking the question. Pushing your limits or a pleasure cruise? Interested in jumping into your first multi-pitch climb with a knowledgeable guide? Synthetic or Merino Wool; Adds extra warmth and protection from the cold and wind without creating a moisture barrier as a jacket would. The waist belt should fit over multiple layers of clothing. ACE reviews applications and makes recommendations to park management to approve or deny the applications. Colorado Parks and Wildlife does NOT maintain fixed anchors or other aspects of climbing routes. This is about as good as 5.10 rock climbing gets! Nearby Rocky Mountain National Park has lots to do too. Protection can be difficult to find, and without open eyes looking in all directions, so can the holds. As an experienced rock climber and local Coloradan of over 11 years, I’m so stoked to give you the inside scoop about climbing in Eldorado Canyon. Others also have spent decades climbing here, exploring the myriad walls and climbs of the canyon, and in some cases even putting up new routes and variations. Our Equipment and E, Great insight below from AMGA Certified Rock and A, Like if you’re psyched for winter. High on the flanks of Shirt Tail Peak, Gambit offers exposed and sustained crack and face climbing in a more “alpine” setting- the topout is the highpoint of Eldorado Canyon State Park and has the best views in the area. Hoods are ideal. Women: Rab Salvo Jacket, Provides support and allows for full range of motion. Try a level down. UIAA/CE approved; Should be large enough to fit over a beanie. Alternatively, you can opt to hit the road and enjoy one of the most scenic drives in Colorado along the Peak to Peak highway into Estes Park. Only a few bolted sport routes (starting at 5.11d) can be found in the canyon. Flash forward a few weeks and you’ll find yourself wanting to get back on lead. Along with Rocky Mountain National Park, Eldorado is one of the areas where Colorado Mountain School guides spend the most time, and we know Eldo like no other guide service. However, the Bomb (5.4) or Recon (5.6) link-up to the West Overhang (juggy 5.7 roof) is generally on solid rock. There are too many routes to create a PDF at this node. Gambit: Rated 5.8, 4 pitches: What are you waiting for? For all seasons, cotton, loose-fitting (or tight, stretchy) pants are usually acceptable for rock climbing. Plan accordingly. Home; Areas by State; Map; Favorites; Mobile ; Widget; Colorado | Eldorado Canyon. Hands down the best time to climb in Eldorado Canyon is from April through October. Eldorado is a traditional climbing area, not a sport climbing area. Pack out all trash- yours and others’. A lot of people love Swanson Arete (5.5) but I found the route to climb more like a 5.6/5.7. Use fixed gear at your own risk and back it up when possible. A climb right by the road, or a more remote outing with a longer approach? Alternatively, you can use a Colorado State Parks Annual Pass to enter the park. There are a few easy routes on the Wind Tower and the Whales Tale, but for the most part, even the easier routes tend to ask for an experienced skill set. There’s all sorts of climbing in Eldorado Canyon, but it takes a special kind of climber to navigate these fortified buttresses. Arguably the best climbing route in all of Eldorado Canyon is the Yellow Spur (5.9+, 6 pitches). We highly recommend this area for those seeking a … Check your promotional tab. I’ve climbed at dozens of climbing areas in nearly 20 of the U.S. states and a smattering of countries on 5 continents and I still believe that Eldo has some of the best climbing anywhere. Eldorado Canyon is one of Colorado’s premier climbing destinations. Look for a mask with a bendable border at the top so you can mold the mask to fit the bridge of your nose and prevent your glasses from fogging. Always formulate a plan of action that everyone in the climbing party understands. Warn others if you dislodge rocks. Climbing with a guide has the most obvious benefit of having someone with knowledge of an area to show you the classic routes. All of our courses can be run as private outings. requires a permit. Colorado Mountain School is an equal opportunity provider and is operated under special use permit with the Arapaho & Roosevelt National Forest. Walk-offs are confusing, route lines aren’t always obvious, and climbing conditions can get an alpine feel at times. Colorado Mountain School; Neptune Mountaineering. Loose rock, unreliable fixed anchors, and other hazards can exist on any route. I like to explain Eldorado Climbing like this. Mark Hammond Site Login | Register. Climbers wanting to remove fixed hardware, replace pitons with either pitons or bolts, relocate bolts or pitons, or place new bolts must first apply with The Action Committee for Eldorado (ACE). Men: Rab Forge LS Tee Home to countless classics like the 3-star Rewritten (5.7 6 pitches). Fantastic positioning, fun and engaging climbing with sustained movement. Eldorado Canyon and Boulder, in general, don’t offer up a lot of places to camp. A standard rack consists of an array of nuts and cams, from small RP’s up to about four inch cams, along with a dozen or more quick draws and longer slings. The roaring creek and high winds can make communication difficult. Pitch after varied pitch lead upwards to the spectacularly exposed Rebauffat’s Arete, hundreds of feet off the deck. It offers over five hundred technical rock climbing routes attracting climbers around the world to the “Eldo’s” golden cliffs. The sun sets sooner than you think. Most vehicles should be able to navigate the potholes, but it’s unpaved and can be muddy after rains. Multi-pitch climbing is a maximum ratio of 3:1. Holds climbing chalk, which is usually made from Magnesium Carbonate. You can’t mention Eldorado Canyon climbing without talking about the famous Bastille Crack (5.7, 5 pitches). Forecast High / Low Precip. Drive into nearby Boulder for an array of awesome eateries including places like The Mountain Sun, Avery Brewing, or Snarfs Sandwiches. With a sixteen-bed lodge available exclusively to Colorado Mountain School students, course participants are welcome to reserve a bed, but should be aware that there course meets each morning in Boulder or Denver – approximately a 50 -70 minute drive from our lodge. Short approach hikes make it possible for the average party to climb 10 pitches a day, and with a variety of aspects throughout the canyon, climbers ascend the walls year-round. Her mission is to get you out on your greatest adventure. Plaquette style devices with auto-block mode are ideal. Pitch after pitch of exposed and varied climbing lead to the delicate crux “pin ladder” pitch, with 400 feet of air beneath your climbing shoes. All of Smiles’ guides are members in good standing of the CGC. This is required by regulation at developed areas such as picnic areas. You’ll get excited about the prospect of a route, jump on the sharp end, get humbled, and walk off swearing you’ll never climb that route again. With upwards of 600 climbs and walls up to 700 feet high wall, Eldo offers some of the best rock climbing in North America.

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